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Monday, November 15, 2010

Saigon Story : Welcome to Uncle Ho's Land

I really had no idea what brought me to Saigon. Just bought the fight tix and thought, "This place is sounds cool." Never browse this place on the internet until 2 weeks before the departure. All I know about this country are: the ruins of the war, communist-socialist country, underdeveloped, John Rambo. I share the same impressions with other Indonesians. It appeared when I was interviewed by the Immigration officer for the passport proposal. He joked, "You're helping Rambo against the Vietcong, eh? hahahaha". Yeah right, everybody doesn't know any shit about this country except the war and suffering stuff, which i think it's exotic.



With the lonely-planet-wikitravel-knowledge, i packed my bag and finally stepped my feet on Uncle Ho's land. This country was underrated. Never thought that Tan Son Nhat Airport could be this modern. Ann, our host in Saigon, told me this airport was rebuilt 3 years ago. Ah, no wonder this could be modern.



We stayed at Ann's place for the first 3 days. Ann's house is just 3 km away from the airport. It's in the northwest of Ho Chi Minh City (the other name of this city, widely used now but I prefer Saigon), in the suburb. It took only 15 minutes to get here from the airport. In the Vinasun cab I was thinking, "Hey, I'm not in Java Island anymore. Here I am in mainland Asia". I was too excited to be there. On the way to Ann's place, I saw a very identical city view here and Jakarta. Lobak said, "Seriously, this is exactly just like Mangga Besar. The people are Chinese looking but they speak completely different language." Yes, some parts of this city are identical with Jakarta. No wonder it's not that different, it's still in the Southeast Asia. Finally we arrived at Ann's place. We got settled and had mouth-watering homemade Vietnamese dinner, and had nice chit-chat before we went to bed.



In the first morning, I was surprised on what I saw in front of Ann's house. The streets in the neighborhood was fulfilled with street vendors, breakfast street-food sellers, and zillions of motorbikes. The streets was like a river with motorbikes flowing on the street. For a person who is living in a crazy-traffic city, I even consider the traffic was insane. You can't even walk across an alley during rush hours. You can find this kind of situation in every street of the city in the dusk and dawn.



After waited for the rain to stop. We went to the city in the afternoon by bus. It took 20 minutes from Ann's to Ben Thanh market, the city central. Again and again, I underrated this city. Unlike my imaginations, everything that catches my eyes was a surprising thing for me. Everything is beautiful as a city, never thought that this country could have such an order city, like Saigon. The city central was fulfilled with French-colonial art deco buildings. Hotels, restaurants, shopping arcade, coffee shops (try Trung Nguyen, pronounced Chung-ngyen, are heavenly good) are in hundred years old building. Not to forget to mention the sidewalks, they're completely wide and clean, no street vendors. This is completely different than Jakarta. When the night came, the city has its own beauty with the city lights, splendid. And oh, almost forgot the parks, there's a park at least one in every block greened by big trees, statues, pavements, and people who are enjoying their time. I really love it with all my heart. Never been to Europe, but I feel I was somewhere in Europe. So nice, so well-cultured. It is understandable if the city is well-preserved because back in the war times, it was occupied by the US Army. Only the northern part, which is occupied by the Vietcong, was devastated because of the war.



Besides the city, I also got the chance to see Mekong Delta. I don't like join the tour but that's the only way I can do to get there. Mekong river was BIG. Maybe for Indonesian Mekong is overrated cause we have big rivers here but for me who only know Ciliwung as the river, it's great. Went cruising along the river, visited islands in the middle of the river, tried the local food and culture were pleasant enough for me.

One thing I found in this city, or maybe this country, is: Ho Chi Minh is everywhere. He's on the Billboards, on the streets, on every ammount of the currency, in the museums, in the heroic stories, and maybe in the Vietnamese's hearts. I was wondering, "Where are the other national heroes? Did he fight by himself? or is he just being narcissistic?" Well, maybe because they're still pretty much communist, there's only one man for the country just like Mao for China or Castro for Cuba. The only thing about this city, or maybe this country (damn! I should've traveled to other cities here..) is it's all about the war stuff, the history, the war suffering, and the hatred of Vietnamese towards the Americans or French (it's debatable). It's pretty obvious when you are in touristic areas. They sell the history lot more than culture. That's what I'm feeling about tourism here.




Gastronomic experience here is amazing. Everything in Vietnam taste so goddamn great. From the all Vietnamese homemade food I tried in Ann's, the restaurants, cafes, until the street food had been mouthwatering and all-time craving for me. I don't mind eating pork so I tried lots of kinds of food here. The Banh Mi -Vietnamese sandwich-, Banh Seo, Pho Bo, Pho Ga, and other hard-to-remember-the-name foods taste heavenly. I could even eat a rock covered by mud here and it tastes really good. It is obvious that their cuisine are strongly influenced by Chinese and French delicacy. Vietnamese food is a very great combination between the meat, carbo, and vegetables. Eating is one of my major activities here. I love eating in everywhere, even eating in the street food in front of Vietnamese schools had become a very great experience. Apart from the enormous usage of basil, I love Vietnamese food.

The thing about traveling is you can have opportunity to meet new people and try to absorb the city's atmosphere. I found the people here are quite nice. Hard to communicate with most of the locals since their English ability is no better than the Neanderthals. Since I don't speak Tieng Viet al all, I found it really hard to communicate with them when I was in shops, or restaurants. One day, when I was in a nice coffee shop near Ann's, I asked the waiter for an ashtray. Before I asked, she ran inside the coffee shop (I was in the terrace) and then she gave me the bill. I was laughing and I told her with my body language that I need ashtray. She nodded and went inside the coffee shop. Then she came out with a smile and.... a matches in her hand. She gave me the matches and I ran out of words of languages. I ended up wasting the ashes on the floor. One American man I met named Darren told me that compared to any other people in Indochina, Vietnamese are bitchier. They don't speak English but they seemed don't want to learn. When we talked to them, they easily angry cause they're frustrated they don't get what we said. Geez...




Apart from the bitchy Vietnamese, I met amazing people here. Met Darren, and American who is currently moving from Seoul to Saigon for a new living. Had inspiring all-night-long conversations and discussions with him about life. Met Collin, and Irish who owns an Irish Bar named Collin's and listened to his marriage stories with his Vietnamese wife and his stories about how hard to manage a bar in Vietnam. And of course, accidental meeting with Ivan is one of the interesting part of this city. I accidentally met him at KFC, he's Vietnamese-looking but I kinda notice that he's Indonesian from his Tokema T-shirt and Consina pants. He ended up being our "local guide" and brought us to nice places in Saigon.
What pleasant days in Uncle Ho's Land


If you have time, you can see more of the picture

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Just Enough for a City


Lately I've been listening to Stevie's "Living for the city". I found it really great since I fond of his masterpieces. Knew it for the first time when somebody -forgot the name- brought it in American Idol.
From this song, Wonder can articulate his personal background and the social situation in America, esp. in the southern states, at that era. Living for the city..

I'm not trying to place on a par with Stevie but I found things in common with the words within the lyrics. I was born in Kramat Tunggak, the place where there used to be a red light district in the north of Jakarta. I was born there not because my mom was a prostitute or my dad was a pimp, because my dad's workplace hospital is located there. Never been living in that area but I think it's really tough there compared to any other part of this city. My dad was a man from the small town in Central Java, a truly Javanese, and mom came from the western part of the island.

My old man, he had a very tough life. His old man passed away 3 days after the celebration of his circumcision, when he was 9 or 10. He was a bright one in his town, brought his bundle of clothes to Jakarta. Started his life really tough as ojek driver in Kota, then being a teacher, and ended up as an accountant in the state-owned harbor company. He didn't dig a lot of gold but he bang his bones off his body for the family. It wasn't much but it's just enough for the city.
My mom had a better kinda situation than my dad's. Leave her hometown when she was a teenager, went to catholic schools and end up working for the government. Though she wasn't suffering, it was tough at that time to live away from her comfort zone and spend her young time with her brother and his demonic wife. She's not making a lot of cash till now, but she's squeezing her brain and juggling harder than the clown in the circus. It's not much, but it's just enough for the city.

I never found tough life here. Got everything I want. Not actually everything, at least the primary and secondary ones. But we could get things we want if we save more and work our ass harder. Yes, it's just like when we don't have an apple tree in our lemon tree garden. When we want an apple, we don't need to walk miles away from our garden to Eden. Just save some spaces of the land, put the apple seeds, pour some water, let them grow, and wait for the harvest time. It needs efforts, but we got the apples eventually.

So I never feel like a poor boy from Mumbay, but I never feel like an Upper East Sider either. But I can taste sweet stuff if I put some sugar in it. Just learn harder, then got into univ. Just learn less-harder to be a grade-A. Just work a bit and a little juggling and save some dimes to get fake apparels, nice social lubricants, and discover a little piece of this globe. It's not much, but the living just enough for he city.

Click here to hear the song

A boy is born in hard time Mississippi
Surrounded by four walls that ain't so pretty
His parents give him love and affection
To keep him strong moving in the right direction
Living just enough, just enough for the city...

His father works some days for fourteen hours
And you can bet he barely makes a dollar
His mother goes to scrub the floor for many
And you'd best believe she hardly gets a penny
Living just enough, just enough for the city...yeah

His sister's black but she is sho 'nuff pretty
Her skirt is short but Lord her legs are sturdy
To walk to school she's got to get up early
Her clothes are old but never are they dirty
Living just enough, just enough for the city...um hum

Her brother's smart he's got more sense than many
His patience's long but soon he won't have any
To find a job is like a haystack needle
Cause where he lives they don't use colored people
Living just enough, just enough for the city...
Living just enough...
For the city...ooh,ooh
[repeat several times]

His hair is long, his feet are hard and gritty
He spends his love walking the streets of New York City
He's almost dead from breathing on air pollution
He tried to vote but to him there's no solution
Living just enough, just enough for the city...yeah, yeah, yeah!

I hope you hear inside my voice of sorrow
And that it motivates you to make a better tomorrow
This place is cruel no where could be much colder
If we don't change the world will soon be over
Living just enough, just enough for the city!!!!
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